Monthly Archives: November 2015

Just a demonstration.

It’s Saturday 14th, and Bishopsgate is eerily quiet as I exit Liverpool Street station. I’m sure that the weekend plays a part – who would want to be here on a rainy Saturday morning? – but I can’t avoid thinking … Continue reading

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Sarajevo – Zagreb, one last time.

How much more can you write about the Balkans? Well, in fact a lot. You can say, for example, that you finally managed to find a Sarajevo Rose and, whilst you were standing there thinking “Somebody died here” a group … Continue reading

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On the night bus.

Eyes closed, you rub your palms on the face, trying to restart circulation. You stop and catch your reflex in the brown bottle of Sarajevska – the fifth, or sixth? – of the day. It looks exactly as tired as it … Continue reading

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A rowing regatta

The stretch of the Po river that flows past the city of Turin, in Northwest Italy, is normally quiet: a few rowers, two boats doing a sort of public shuttle service, countless ducks and swans. This weekend, though, things were … Continue reading

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Börek, burek, byrek, byorek, bouréki: a food pilgrimage.

In 1389 a momentous event happened, something that changed the landscape of the Balkans, and of much of Central Europe, for ever. The armies of Murad I, no longer held in check by the Byzantine empire, swarmed into the Balkan … Continue reading

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