Monthly Archives: July 2017

A strange capital for a strange country. Dušanbe.

With hindsight, it was surprising that we had no plans for Dušanbe; it was meant to be the last leg of our journey, a simple stop-gap, an interlude between the last leg of the Highway and the flight home. In … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, Central Asia, Tajikistan | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 11 Comments

The “Frontier School of Character”: Travels along the Pamir Highway Part V.

To Dušanbe. “In my opinion, eight officers out of ten are corrupted in Dušanbe” Tajik police officer, interviewed by I. Khamonov, 2005 My memories of Khorog are fleeting, for such was the nature of my permanence there. We took possession … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, Central Asia, Tajikistan | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 16 Comments

The “Frontier School of Character”: Travels along the Pamir Highway Part IV.

To Khorog. “Recent years have struck a final crippling blow to the roadlessness of Kirgiziia […]. Instead of isolated districts there is now one connected and unified economic whole.” M.M. Slavinskii, 1935 A minute man waited for us in the … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, Tajikistan | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 18 Comments

The “Frontier School of Character”: Travels along the Pamir Highway Part III

Murghab. “’Tis said to be the highest place in the world” Marco Polo Looking back, the handful of hours we spent on the road between Karakul and the Tajik town of Murghab were my favourite of the entire journey. It … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, Tajikistan | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 14 Comments