Category Archives: Asia

Monochrome Kashgar.

I had plans for more stories from Xinjiang; however, the more I try to put pen to paper the more I realise I don’t want to add words to what I’ve already said. What I do have are some photos. … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, China, Xinjiang | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 15 Comments

Nobody speak. A Xinjiang journal.

Why coming here? I loathe the term dark tourism. Yet why am I here? I’m not an activist, a journalist, somebody with a higher sense of purpose. My only answer is because it’s there. Because I want to see it with my own eyes. … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, Central Asia, China, Kyrgyzstan, Xinjiang | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 43 Comments

A Huck Finn state of mind.

What does it feel like to be floating on the mighty Mississippi with no worries but where to moor for the night? How does it feel to be absolutely unconstrained by timescales, worries or need-to? In a nutshell, what does it … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, Central Asia, Kyrgyzstan | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 24 Comments

Mountains, alleys and oppression. A taste of what’s to come.

It’s been my hardest trip. It’s the one I’ve been the sickest, the loneliest, the most confused and bewildered. But it’s also been a source of endless grins, of unexpected solutions to sudden problems, of sweeping views and of deep, … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, Central Asia, China, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 10 Comments

Uzbek football, Korean streets and the Games. A 2018 wrap-up.

The last trip of the year ended today. I crossed the crucial threshold somewhere between the Brazilian rainforest and the Atlantic, blissfully unaware of it as I slept in my airplane seat wrapped in one of those duvets that are … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, Central Asia, Kyrgyzstan, South Korea, Uzbekistan | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 15 Comments

Six Photos in Search of a Story.

A picture is worth a thousand words, they say. Never let photos in the way of a good story, I say. Ask anyone who’d read Thubron or Robb, writers of books without as much as a picture, and ask them … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, South Korea | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 33 Comments

The Merry Shopkeepers of Bukchon.

There’s a neighbourhood, in Seoul, called Bukchon. Traditional and small-towny in a city of tens of millions, it’s familiar to Instagrammers worldwide. Bukchon has many charms. There are windy hill roads and villas for which the term leafy has, undoubtedly, been coined. … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, South Korea | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 20 Comments

Live fish and fried shrimp. Searching for dinner in Noryangjin.

The sun was setting over Yeongdeungpo. The sun was setting; lights on a legion of buildings were turning on and I couldn’t pronounce the name of the neighbourhood not even if it helped to save my bacon. Speaking of bacon, … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, South Korea | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 21 Comments

Sleepless in Seoul.

The idea for this post’s title has been respectfully pinched from this lovely Instagram account. The idea of jet-lag was so new to me that it took me an inordinate amount of time to come to the conclusion that what was … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, South Korea | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 22 Comments

The devil’s horsemen.

For the Parthians shot as they fled, being, indeed, more adept at this than anyone except the Scythians, and it is certainly a very clever manoeuvre – to fight and to look after one’s own safety at the same time.   … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, Central Asia, Kyrgyzstan | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 14 Comments