Tag Archives: Andes

High and dry – Atacama Travelogue, Part III.

Laguna Chaxa lies at the end of more off-road fun, a few kilometres of track dug into the soft sand and salt of the salar. Here there are no bathing tourists, only pathways scraped in the blinding whiteness of the … Continue reading

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High and dry – Atacama Travelogue, Part II.

Our hostal lies at a crossroad on the edge of town. Go right and it’s ruta 23, the lagunas, Socaire and, ultimately, Argentina. Go straight on ruta 27 and again it’s the Argentinian border, as well as the Bolivian one. … Continue reading

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High and dry – Atacama Travelogue, Part I.

It’s said to be the driest desert in the world outside of Antarctica. So dry that certain riverbeds haven’t seen a drop of water in more than 120,000 years, some weather stations have never recorded any rainfall and, even where … Continue reading

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A fire in Balvanera and other stories: a brief glimpse into Buenos Aires.

Something is burning on Avenida Rivadavia. White smoke is rising in thick plumes from a shop on the south side of the road, cutting the perspective like a curtain hanging from the trees. Flames fan out intermittently and passers-by scatter, … Continue reading

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To the lost city that never was: walking to Machu Picchu.

On paper, the story was engrossing, the stuff of an Indiana Jones blockbuster or of a Wilbur Smith book. Picture this: a misty morning in the Urubamba valley, deep in the Peruvian Andes. Jagged peaks covered in thick rain forest. … Continue reading

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The world from above: Amazonia

Over the years, as flying became less an event and more a frequent occurrence, my seat-choosing preferences changed, from “always window” to “you know what, I’d rather have aisle”. However, there are exceptions. There are places – Greenland, the Putorana … Continue reading

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Ultimately, the soulless won.

Music echoes from Plaza de Armas, the martial tones of a brass band blended with the cacophony of a cumbia dance. Irreverent, the noise penetrates into the cathedral, bouncing along the whitewashed arcs of the vault. Whitewashed, as was the … Continue reading

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Lavapiés

Downtown Madrid was being swept away by a Eat, pray, love-like typhoon. Everywhere I turned, all I could see were tourists in search for anything that was artisanal, local and – why not – gluten free as well. In the Mercado … Continue reading

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