Tag Archives: Balkans

Sarajevo – Zagreb, one last time.

How much more can you write about the Balkans? Well, in fact a lot. You can say, for example, that you finally managed to find a Sarajevo Rose and, whilst you were standing there thinking “Somebody died here” a group … Continue reading

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On the night bus.

Eyes closed, you rub your palms on the face, trying to restart circulation. You stop and catch your reflex in the brown bottle of Sarajevska – the fifth, or sixth? – of the day. It looks exactly as tired as it … Continue reading

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Sunset in Zadar

We rolled down from the mountains, through caves and gorges, towards the sea, as if driven by an invisible force. Zadar was our goal, an old Venetian town built on a small peninsula, a natural battleship moored in a landscape … Continue reading

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Sarajevo people (and dog) watching

I had always had a positive connotation towards Sarajevo. For whatever reason, the Bosnian capital is in my list of places – including Tbilisi, Budapest and a few others – that, I’m convinced, cannot harbor any fathead. This belief has … Continue reading

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Bullet holes and tombstones: entering Sarajevo

If I had any doubts about how fragmented the kaleidoscope of Bosnia’s ethnicities was, a drive to Sarajevo was all I needed to dispel them. My passport was stamped at a crossing in Šamac, in the Republika Srpska and as … Continue reading

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Honey, scenic roads and wrong turns: A brief guide to driving in the Balkans

The road is a perfect combination of smooth tarmac, beautifully designed hairpin bends and quick straights that seem to say “Come on, get loose on that accelerator”. A bit of traffic is coming the other way – trucks, mostly, and the … Continue reading

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