Tag Archives: Church

Ashes and blue skies: a Palermo travelogue.

Warm air rushes in to fill the plane. We disembark by row, adhering scrupulously to the new socially-distant orthodoxy, ditching jumpers and jackets as we do: summer might be a distant memory where we left off, washed away in the … Continue reading

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Jérusalem la nuit.

It’s not a long ride from Ben Gurion to Jerusalem, especially if it’s 4 AM and there’s little, in terms of traffic, to slow down our yellow-and-white sherut van. We weave in and out of the most conservative neighbourhoods of … Continue reading

Posted in Israel, Middle East | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 21 Comments

Every day is Legs Day if you’re in Lisbon.

“Every day is Legs Day if you’re a dog” once said a philosophy-inclined former colleague of mine. For those of you not familiar with gym logic, he was referring to the fact that dogs, for obvious reasons, cannot skip training … Continue reading

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Swindlers’ Market.

On a square dedicated to the saint patron of needleworkers and television, behind the convent sanctifying the memory of the protector of orphans and widows, Lisbon’s lady thieves are having their weekly gathering. Make of that what you wish. For … Continue reading

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Delirious Venezia.

Thirty-one years, all of which in possess of a passport marked “Repubblica Italiana”, and I had never been to Venezia. I visited Hanoi, Dušanbe and Charlotte, North Carolina, but never made it to the city at the end of the Veneto … Continue reading

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An afternoon south of the river: finding Armenians in Iran and how civilization begun.

“…a wicked regime where anti-Semitism and Holocaust denial is official ideology, and with […] killing of women just because they’re women”  – Sarah Palin The south bank of the dried Zāyanderūd river is Armenian at heart. This piece of Iran, long … Continue reading

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Out of season.

We visit them from December to Easter and from June to August. In the meantime, mountain villages slip out of the back of our minds, into a limbo where we rarely, if ever, venture. What happens up there, when we’re … Continue reading

Posted in Europe, Italy, Overlooked locations, Piemonte | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Faithful London – Russian Orthodox Cathedral, Chiswick

A few weeks ago I happened to be watching Simon Sebag Montefiore’s series of documentaries about Istanbul. What fascinated me, besides the undeniable beauty of that city, was how power – and religion – seemed to form the very fabric … Continue reading

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Capturing light: the lost art of stained glass in Hungary

Hungary, in my humble opinion, is one of the most underrated countries in Central Europe. Most of those who bothered visiting either contented themselves with a quick trip over to Budapest or with a cruise down the Danube, oblivious of … Continue reading

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