Tag Archives: Latin America

High and dry – Atacama Travelogue, Part III.

Laguna Chaxa lies at the end of more off-road fun, a few kilometres of track dug into the soft sand and salt of the salar. Here there are no bathing tourists, only pathways scraped in the blinding whiteness of the … Continue reading

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High and dry – Atacama Travelogue, Part II.

Our hostal lies at a crossroad on the edge of town. Go right and it’s ruta 23, the lagunas, Socaire and, ultimately, Argentina. Go straight on ruta 27 and again it’s the Argentinian border, as well as the Bolivian one. … Continue reading

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High and dry – Atacama Travelogue, Part I.

It’s said to be the driest desert in the world outside of Antarctica. So dry that certain riverbeds haven’t seen a drop of water in more than 120,000 years, some weather stations have never recorded any rainfall and, even where … Continue reading

Posted in Americas, Chile | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 12 Comments

Porteño portrait.

There’s only a way to define my desire to describe a community of 13 million people after visiting it for a mere handful of days: preposterous. Still, this is what I’ll attempt here. This is my final tribute to Buenos … Continue reading

Posted in Americas, Argentina | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 19 Comments

A fire in Balvanera and other stories: a brief glimpse into Buenos Aires.

Something is burning on Avenida Rivadavia. White smoke is rising in thick plumes from a shop on the south side of the road, cutting the perspective like a curtain hanging from the trees. Flames fan out intermittently and passers-by scatter, … Continue reading

Posted in Americas, Argentina | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 18 Comments

Songs for the Road 7 – Now with even less sense!

The hot season is definitely upon us (at least, as much as it can be for London) and the poor algorithm that chooses the Your Mix selection on Youtube must be excused to be thinking that the heat has made me … Continue reading

Posted in Music review, Odd ones out | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 12 Comments

La Amazonia No Se Vende.

I blame it on the Piccadilly Line. You see, living in London makes you think that every other city’s public transportation system will move at the same speed as the unwieldy web of train lines that huffs and puffs beneath … Continue reading

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To the lost city that never was: walking to Machu Picchu.

On paper, the story was engrossing, the stuff of an Indiana Jones blockbuster or of a Wilbur Smith book. Picture this: a misty morning in the Urubamba valley, deep in the Peruvian Andes. Jagged peaks covered in thick rain forest. … Continue reading

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Surfin’ LI.M.A.

If everybody had an ocean Across LI.M.A. Then everybody’d be surfin’ Like Miraf… Nah, it doesn’t rhyme. Beach boys analogies aside, Miraflores was a surprise. It was the tail end of our permanence in Peru and Miraflores provided a welcome … Continue reading

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On the Praia: life on Rio’s beaches.

  The kilometres-long arc of sand glitters under the rays of the late afternoon sun. The green-blue sea breaks in white sprays of surf, ridden times and times again by kids using themselves as surfboards. Men and women flock in … Continue reading

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