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Tag Archives: Sarajevo
On the night bus.
Eyes closed, you rub your palms on the face, trying to restart circulation. You stop and catch your reflex in the brown bottle of Sarajevska – the fifth, or sixth? – of the day. It looks exactly as tired as it … Continue reading
Börek, burek, byrek, byorek, bouréki: a food pilgrimage.
In 1389 a momentous event happened, something that changed the landscape of the Balkans, and of much of Central Europe, for ever. The armies of Murad I, no longer held in check by the Byzantine empire, swarmed into the Balkan … Continue reading
Posted in All things food, Balkans, Bosnia Herzegovina, Europe
Tagged çay, Börek, Bosnia, Burek, Croatia, Cuisine, Pekara Edin, pogača, sade açma, Sarajevo, simit, Turkey, Zagreb, ćevapčići
2 Comments
Sarajevo people (and dog) watching
I had always had a positive connotation towards Sarajevo. For whatever reason, the Bosnian capital is in my list of places – including Tbilisi, Budapest and a few others – that, I’m convinced, cannot harbor any fathead. This belief has … Continue reading
Posted in Balkans, Bosnia Herzegovina, Europe
Tagged Balkans, Bosnia, Bosnia Herzegovina, Europe, Sarajevo, Street photography
4 Comments
Veterans
I was standing outside the National Library of Sarajevo, looking at the mountains reflecting in the glass doors of the grand entrance – the same mountains from which incendiary ordnance was dropped, burning the Library and its heritage to the … Continue reading
Posted in Balkans, Bosnia Herzegovina, Europe
Tagged Balkan War, Bosnia Herzegovina, Boznia, Public transportation, Sarajevo, Siege of Sarajevo, Tram, Tramway, Tramways, Veterans
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Bullet holes and tombstones: entering Sarajevo
If I had any doubts about how fragmented the kaleidoscope of Bosnia’s ethnicities was, a drive to Sarajevo was all I needed to dispel them. My passport was stamped at a crossing in Šamac, in the Republika Srpska and as … Continue reading
Posted in Balkans, Bosnia Herzegovina, Europe
Tagged Balkan War, Balkans, Bosnia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Europe, JNA, Sarajevo, Sarajevo Rose, Serbia, Siege of Sarajevo, Yugoslavia
6 Comments
Honey, scenic roads and wrong turns: A brief guide to driving in the Balkans
The road is a perfect combination of smooth tarmac, beautifully designed hairpin bends and quick straights that seem to say “Come on, get loose on that accelerator”. A bit of traffic is coming the other way – trucks, mostly, and the … Continue reading
Posted in Balkans, Bosnia Herzegovina, Croatia
Tagged Balkans, Bosnia, Bosnia Hercegovina, Cars, Croatia, Europe, Google maps, Mountains, Overtaking, Road Trip, Sarajevo, Zagreb
7 Comments
