Tag Archives: Travel

Disaster by design: the death and partial rebirth of the Aral Sea (Part 3).

I’d expected the whistling undertaker from For a Fistful of Dollars to be appearing at every corner I turned. I was to experience this feeling again, in Central Asia, but Aralsk looked – even smelt, if that was ever possible – … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, Central Asia | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , | 15 Comments

Disaster by design: the death and partial rebirth of the Aral Sea (Part 2).

I’d seen Serik a long time before we met in the parking lot outside the Altair hotel; in fact, I first read about him on Al Jazeera. Dubbed “Aralsk’s only tour guide”, he’d accepted to be my guide for the … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, Kazakhstan | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 19 Comments

Weren’t all they supposed to be madmen?

Lunatics. Zealots. Religious fanatics. These were a few of the attributes that friends and acquaintances slapped on the people of Iran whenever the topic came up. Unrequested opinions were offered, together with garbled memories of articles penned down by the … Continue reading

Posted in Asia, Iran | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , , , | 14 Comments

On the night bus.

Eyes closed, you rub your palms on the face, trying to restart circulation. You stop and catch your reflex in the brown bottle of Sarajevska – the fifth, or sixth? – of the day. It looks exactly as tired as it … Continue reading

Posted in Balkans, Bosnia Herzegovina, Europe | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , | 4 Comments

When the journey is the destination: a trip on Norway’s Bergensbanen.

As every person’s preferences evolve through time, I’m finding my own taste for travel changing the more I grow old. At 16 or thereabouts the best trip was to descend to Ibiza with a group of pals, our goal see … Continue reading

Posted in Europe, Norway | Tagged , , , , , , , , , , , | Leave a comment

The most tragic, miserable and bone-breaking way of travelling. Coach.

Early on Saturday morning last week I emerged from Budapest Airport’s Terminal 2B with a smile on my face. I had a thoroughly enjoyable couple of flights on Turkish Airlines, the sun was shining and – miracle – the ATM … Continue reading

Posted in Europe, Hungary, Public Transportation, Random memories | Tagged , , , , | 5 Comments