Tag Archives: Zagreb

On the night bus.

Eyes closed, you rub your palms on the face, trying to restart circulation. You stop and catch your reflex in the brown bottle of Sarajevska – the fifth, or sixth? – of the day. It looks exactly as tired as it … Continue reading

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Börek, burek, byrek, byorek, bouréki: a food pilgrimage.

In 1389 a momentous event happened, something that changed the landscape of the Balkans, and of much of Central Europe, for ever. The armies of Murad I, no longer held in check by the Byzantine empire, swarmed into the Balkan … Continue reading

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Zagreb people watching

Sometimes, the places we least think about are those that leave the deepest impression, and this was the case with Zagreb. Of our errands through the Balkans, the Croatian capital was the only place I thought about as a stopover and … Continue reading

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Nuns

The group of nuns emerged from Zagreb’s Cathedral and immediately stopped in the piazza, gesticulating feverishly as they spoke with each other in a deluge of fast-paced Croatian. Initially they didn’t seem to notice the man approaching them. A backpacker, … Continue reading

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Honey, scenic roads and wrong turns: A brief guide to driving in the Balkans

The road is a perfect combination of smooth tarmac, beautifully designed hairpin bends and quick straights that seem to say “Come on, get loose on that accelerator”. A bit of traffic is coming the other way – trucks, mostly, and the … Continue reading

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